Showing posts with label Marchiennes France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Marchiennes France. Show all posts

5.19.2010

One Month left to go, nine down. . . .

It wasn't so long ago that I wrote a post entitled one month down nine to go, but now I have but one month left, I'm sitting outside to write this post because the warm weather is back, and this time I'm adjusted to the humidity so I can enjoy it. When I first got here I was cold even on the nice days. Winter has come and gone, and yet it feels like no time at all has passed. The days go by slowly and the weeks go by in seconds, it seems. Oxana, my local coordinator came by the house over the weekend to check on me for the last time and prepare me for the process of leaving, which I think will be very hard. I was worried about feeling pressured at the last minute with all the arrangements so I got a bunch of info together, but together a package of winter coats and books and journals I don't need, so boots, and carves, and taped it all up. It weighs 20 kilos exactly, which will leave me with about 35 kilos for my suitcases (I have the right to 46) though I'm sure it will end up being more in the end. I had a few days of panic though because the regulations for the airline I'm using, Lufthansa, have changed since I got here, and now we only have the right to one and not two checked bags. Luckily however the association bought my ticket last year so the old rules still apply, and I won't have to pay extra. I'm going to the post office in about an hour to mail it off. I felt so relieved after getting it all set up, but then I think I may have hurt my host family's feelings a bit, with all my planning. I didn't think about it being a sensitive issue because they've been planning a trip for this summer since November, but when I was going through my stuff I found the hand book for CIEE. It has a whole section about leaving, and there is stuff about how you and you're host family, or one or the other might feel sensitive about making arrangements for departure, and or afterwards. Then when Oxana was here she asked if I was ready and Isabelle said as a joke that I was definitely ready, I'd already packed my suitcase. I know it was meant as a joke, but I felt bad all the same, and I think my family was feeling a bit pushed aside because of the box. I'm just glad to be getting it sent off today so we can forget about it, and I can focus all my attention on absorbing up any bits of culture I may have over looked before I leave.
I feel like my french has really come a long way just since January, and that I can really say I'm fluent. Now when I talk to people for the first time they don't ask me if its hard to follow the classes in French, but instead complement me on my French, tell me I speak very well. I understand the lyrics of French songs, which was something that totally evaded me for a long while. Plus, most importantly, I received a copy of the movie "Bienvenue Chez Les Ch'tis" which is a comedy about the Nord-Pas-de-Calais, and the 'patois' or the local dialect spoken here, Ch'ti. I watched it my third day here, and I understood absolutely nothing. I got maybe two jokes out of the whole movie. Well, I watched it for the first time since then the other night, and I understood perfectly. I recognized scenes and buildings in Lille, and I laughed at all the jokes. I felt like I was in on the whole thing, and that I was a part of the culture, even if only a very small part. It was a very warming feeling, but more importantly the next night I talked about it with my family, and I was able to discus it with them, recall lines, ask any questions, etc. which really completed the whole thing.
I don't have any regrets from this year. I think the whole experience has been exactly what I had dreamed it would be, and I would recommend it to anyone who has been considering it. Though I will say I think it is something you have to be motivated to do; if you're having serious regrets or are doing it for someone else, I imagine it would be extremely difficult. I have been dreaming about this since I was 10 year's old but even I had about two weeks of culture shock in the beginning where it was hard for me, and another few days during christmas break where I lost my confidence, my motivation, but that is all normal, most students go through vases throughout the first six months. Overall, I think these last nine months have definitely changed my life, and way of looking at the world. I think my opinions, my tastes, my thoughts in general have been enriched after having been exposed so thoroughly to another mode of life, and another culture. Another important aspect of this experience that I think is a lot less publicized is the chance to see your own country from a seat removed from the action. It's very interesting to see how America looks from the other side of the atlantic, and through the lens of French media. The French are at once enthralled and repulsed by the US and it's priorities. I have found however that in a few cases I have felt protective, defensive even, of the US, which I never felt before this year. I feel I have learned to look at the US from a point of view much more neutral, I see the good and bad now instead of being purely critical, which is a much more comfortable and productive place to be.
I leave the morning of June 18th, so I now have exactly a month to conclude this experience, and to make as memories as possible before I leave. I'm not terribly sad yet, because June still feels very far away, but I know it will go fast, and I don't want to feel like I let it slip through my hands. At any rate I know I will bring home a lot of wonderful things, and I'm very grateful for everything I've gained in the last nine months.
A bientot, e a la France
p.s. I just sent off the package, all's well ; ).

5.01.2010

Lady Bug Saga II

Sorry this took so long. Pretty soon i'm going to stop apologizing for late blog posts because they're all late now. Instead I'll give you all one big blanket apology for being a lousy blogger. Ok that was my little pre-amble.
I had decided to do some research on lady bugs and heir symbolism, because I thought perhaps I'd learn something about the way they seemed to hang around only in my room out of all the house, and maybe there were reasonable ways to counter their agressive invasion. What I found was that eveyone, I mean everyone, from Europe to Idia to Japan to Australia loves lady bugs. Nobody except me thinks they can possibly have any dangerous or viscious qualities, nor are they believed by any culture documented on the web to be deamons of bad fortune. Atleast, I thought, I know I'm not dying of some disease they've infected me with, or the reciprocal of a spiritual parasite carried by these little beacons of fear. On the contrary, they're the little cupids of the world over, they are miniature passion-colored love gurus. Well, I decided, then they must be here to help me out or at least that was their plan before they freaked me out and I tried to ward them away, like a garlic-totin', silver-spear wielding victorian gothic superstitious nut case with a catholic up-bringing. It turns out they do have a tendency to cluster together around a single person, and infest people's houses. Most people don't seem to concerened about their squating but a few offered up advice including bay leaves, citronella candles and other such things on the window sills to ward them off. I however, decided to play it cool. First I made a peace offering one clearly stating my apologies for any harm done, my intention to leave them alone, and turn a blind eye to their previously onus presense in my Salle de Bain. Then I made sure they were clear: love help accepted, as that is their purported duty. When no love revelations came in the next week or so, I opted toward one of the more active routes mentioned in my research. There is an asiatic belief that I found that entails catching a ladybug and then upon releasing it, the little thing will fly off and fine you ture love and then send them your way. Hey, I thought, they're in my bathroom for a reason, why not try and gain something from these world renowned match-makers?
After that things were pretty normal, smooth no, but normal. We had some ups and downs, good times and bad. There was one episode where I let it fly after getting into the shower to find, as well as the normal five or six on the wall, one clinging to the glass divide on my side. I'm sorry, but that's way too close, way over the line, its called a personal space bubble. I had a little cow, flipped out, flicked one or two off the glass to the hard floor below, with steam pouring out my ears, and flames shooting out my nostrils. Luckily for them I chilled out and and a week later I saved two that were drowning on the ridge or the tub, they had slipped in the excess water and slid down the edge on their backs so that their golden legs crawled the air. I let them cling to my finger and hoisted them up to safety. Something about the familiar trusting cling of their feet on my hand evoked memories, and seem to cancel with the terrible nightmare that started this whole story, as this new, calm thankful reaction to my aid was what I had been expecting that fateful night. I felt a new solidarity of sorts, with my roommates. One of them was so traumatized that he didn't want to leave the comfort of my hand without a nudge. I was pleased with myself for saving them, and pleased with them for not having done anything rash since the last time I lost my temper. Then I checked on them again when I turned the shower off: all was well. I stepped out onto the star-shaped, red, shag rug on the floor and crunch - oh goo, what the (expletive deleted) was that!? I picked up the rug and gave it a hearty shake, not one but two dead lady-bugs fell out toppling and bouncy on the floor, hard shells empty and curled up. One had probably suffocated in the folds of the rug, or gotten lost in the jungle of the shag and starved to death, while the other i had clearly stepped on. I must say that humbled my good samaritan, self-righteous lady-bug whisperer feelings right there, but it was hidden in the rug for god's sake. The next day while doing sit-ups I found two more on the floor. I couldn't be sure why they were dying, too hot, or old age, maybe they mated and planted little baby squat-ers in a corner of my room and in their final act of stickin' it to the man (or poor, overwhelmed foreign exchange student, in my case) laid their weary heads to rest. At any rate there were plenty more to fill their shoes there seemed to be no change in the number of live ones sitting on various surfaces of my living quarters. I threw the dead ones away and carried on.
That night at dinner I found at out all. It turns out that my room was not the only infested part of the house, but all the bedrooms were prone to these tomato colored parasites. They aren't French coccinelles, but chinese imports to clean the corn fields of unwanted pests, but they're a bit out of control because they don't die out with the cold. Well, that put an end to my love-guru theory, and an answer on the end of the mystery. Case closed.

4.05.2010

Basket Ball, Bac Blanc, and Bunnies

I know its been ages (more than a month to be specific) since I've blogged, and honestly I have no excuses. I've had subjects to write about (as you can probably tell from the title of this blog) and while I've had more homework than usual I've still had the time. Really I think it all comes back to the fact that I'm a terrible correspondent, I just can't always work up the courage to express myself in writing, I'm not good at writing letters, or journals, and I guess I'm not good at blogging either, I'm just too quick to drop the pen (or close the laptop I guess), and too long in coming back. Okay, enough analyses for one day, back to blogging.
My first subject is basket ball (feel free to laugh, yes I do mean the game with the large ball that requires acute hand-eye-coordination). The 'Jeux Europeens' or the European Games is a festival of sorts between several highschools from various European countries: France, Germany, The Netherlands, Belgium, and Luxembourg. Each high school takes a turn hosting and it rotates every year. Last year it was hosted right here at Notre Dame Des Anges a Saint Amand Les Euax, but this year its in Dietrich, Luxembourg. Its meant to be a friendly competition between neighboring countries to show sportsman ship and the spirit of a united Europe. There are competitions in all sorts of sports such as karate, soccer, swimming, ping pong, etc. but also 'cultural activities' such as dance, theatre, and music. Because the games are hosted in another country this year there is a limited number of spaces available. Each sport is designated a certain number of spots and then the students are chosen or petition for the spots. They fill up very quickly. My host family thought I ought to participate, since I'm an exchange student and the whole point of the games is to bring students of different nationalities together in a common activity. The problem is I don't really play any sports. Well, that was the obvious problem, the real underlying problem was that I had no idea how the games really worked. Everyone kept talking about them, so I'd get hints here and there, but I had no idea for example that you could go sign up if you weren't enrolled in an after school club with NDA all year long (NDA is my high school. NDA is a tiny bit shorter to say than Notre Dame des Anges a Saint Amand les Eaux, but hey if you want to attempt the full name, then I say go for the gold). It turns out however, that you can sign up for just about anything you think you can pul off, provided there's still space. Unfortunately, by the time I'd gained this enlightening information, all the spots were full. About two weeks after I'd given up all hope of attending the games Monsieur Marcant found me on my way to class and asked i fI would like to go to the games. I said yes of course, though I admit I was a bit confused, not to mention wary, because I was afraid going to the games might include participating in some embarrassing and public spectacle in the name of sportsmanship, but he followed up quickly by telling me he thought I could go for dance. Wonderful I thought, though of course I'd already tried to sign up for dance but it was full, still I figured he's the director of the school he can probably pull some strings. Gilles and Isabelle were thrilled as they were hoping to get all three of us (Sarah, Thomas, and I) to go, as they have a business trip the same weekend. Near the end of the following week I hadn't heard anything more about the games, and Thomas and I had tried several times to contact the teacher in charge of dance, but our schedules were too different and we never got a chance to talk. Then, Friday in study a nice woman with a very large folder and a nice long list found me and asked if I was indeed Emma, l'americaine and if I was interested in the games. "Yes, that's me," I said
"Oh good, how do you feel about singing a solo,"
"I'm sorry!?"
"Singing, a solo, are you interested, there's one spot left."
"Um, no, I'm sorry, that's definitely not the spot for me, thank you, but I'm afraid I can't do that."
"Oh, ok. Well, can you play chess by any chance? There's space on the chess team."
"Oh, no I can't play chess either, oh well..."
Well, I thought thats that. Of course this simple thought took three more meetings, several telephone calls and an entire weekend to take on the weight of a veritable fact, due to a couple misunderstandings and a few straggling last hopes, but by Wednesday afternoon it was certain. Just when I'd resigned myself to a weekend at a friends house with Sarah (because while Sarah really does play sports, she only plays popular sports and as she's only in 8th grade all the spots were given by priority to the older students), My swimming coach, with whom I'd been discussing my drama, came up during break and happily announced they'd found a slot for the games, would I like it?
"Why yes, what sport?"
"Basket ball!"
I'm sure the shock, disgust, fear, disapointment, and utter horror that I experienced at that precise moment must have been slapped on my face like clown paint, because everyone started laughing, including me, and the coach.
"Um, oh...I can't really play basket ball, but thanks anyway."
"Well you don't have to be good, the coach said it really doesn't matter. They just lost a player and they need a substitute. Have you ever played before?"
"I played in P.E. with school, a few times...?!"
"Thats fine, I mean you might as wel, try, and then you get to the games."
"Would I have to play a real game?!"
"Uh, ... well yes if you go to the games,...?"
"Oh, ok, well, I guess I could ... try...?"
"Great, there's a practice tonight but as you don't have your stuff then I guess you won't go, but if you could find the coach and talk to him some time today."
And that was that. I ran around like an idiot the rest of the day, trying to find the coach, and get all the papers. At 5:30 on Friday I was standing in the gym with a signed permission slip, a check for 30 euros, a basket ball, and two teams full (boys and girls) of trained athletes. Let me tell you it was a terrifying experience, but I've already had two practice sessions and there's only one left before the games, and I think I can fake it, provided they stop trying to pass me the ball!!!! We leave friday, April 23 at 8:30 in the morning for Dietrich and then we compete I suppose until Sunday when we will return, in time to be home around 5:30. THere is apparently I very fun, international party Saturday night, and pretty much all of my friends are going to one thing or another, so I'm excited despite the discouraging fact that I faced the wrong direction the entire first scrimmage I played.

2.25.2010

sentimental goop, because I don't have the time to be witty tonight

I didn't have time to do the two long blogs I wanted to today due to a quick birthday thing, but I wanted to write something. Today was the first day of spring. I mean I know its not the twenty first and its still technically february, not to mention it is now drizzling outside, as it has been for the past 6 hours, but today was indeed the first day of spring. I know this because this morning up until the late afternoon there was a spring sky. Soft, pure, fresh clouds still untarnished, but also unripe new for the new year hung thick and numerous in a clear watery sky of blue, not the crisp determined blue of winter, but the hazy sleepy blue of spring. What really tipped me off however was the beam of sunlight pouring, bursting through the double glass doors at the end of the hallway out side my study hall this morning. It lasted for so long, and with such careful intensity that I knew, I simply knew that spring had come. It was warm today too, though I'm sure the temperature will waver and regress a bit; all the same, spring has come to my little adopted corner of France. Then later as I was standing on the corner of the street after getting off the bus home I was listening to my ipod and daydreaming when I saw a little hand. I realized that while I thought I has been staring off into space, I had really been staring at the back window of a car preparing to turn, and that in this back seat there was a little girl with a pacifier in her mouth and her face pressed solemnly to the glass. She was waving at me. She had a sound matter of fact face on like she was simply waving to me because I seemed like a nice person who needed a wave, and there fore she was going to perform that service, maybe even a duty. It warmed my heart and I waved back, breaking into a smile. I kept smiling like an idiot all the way down the street to our own car. I mean this little girl waving at me as she rounded the corner, as our eyes met and I smiled back, she made my day, perhaps even my week.
a bientot,
e
p.s. I have found a place that exhibits my obsessive coffee drinking, i.e. I would drink the stuff all day long if I could, but my wallet, my stomach lining, and my need to sleep prevent me, and that place is la nord, where apparently the real northern mining families that go back generations would keep a pot going hot on the fire 24/7, not as strong as the dreaded and mocked italian coffee*, but just strong enough to the workers warm.
*I find it endlessly entertaining this fear of really strong espresso that the french express quite frequently, with 'well no, oh no, not like the italians, of course not that strong, goodness, no...' etc. because of course americans tend not to classify, anything stronger than gas station coffee is strong, period, but the french it seems need to make the distinction between themselves and the italians in many areas I find.

2.24.2010

The ladybug saga

I should have written about this when it all started in, say october or so, but I didn't; I guess I was afraid of angering them, but I think I shall record the entire saga here today:

Well, one night, a cold, wet, and dingy October evening, I was showering to reheat my body/soul, and bring life back to my extremities, when I discovered a black lady bug crawling along the window sill of the little square port hole in the wall of the far side of the shower. It was a tiny little lady bug, black with big red spots and a shiny white head, which made a pattern like saddle shoes where it met his body. I was naturally unalarmed, having grown up with ladybugs in the garden. Ladybugs are legendary for their gentillesse, and I innocently made to pick it up and transfer it outside, as I had fond childhood memories of similar encounters. No sooner, however, than I'd touched its smooth back than it flipped out long, wet, fiendish wings, the likes of which I had never seen. They spiraled out of his back like a venomous tongue to lick my hand, and I in my fear, and shock saw the face of demon smiling at me from the back of this transformed, spotted bug. I hurraled it across the bath room and recoiled in disgust, and horror. Once the beast was free of my grasp, I regained some semblance of my senses and was able to master my mounting confusion. I bravely strolled forward and grasped the thing masquerading as ladybug, and opened the window to fling it out. When what to my astonished eyes should appear, but a whole nest of ladybugs crawling and writhing around the outer rim of the window, not less than 30! Well, I dropped that bug faster than superman on crack, slammed the window shut with every once of my strength and ran, stifling my urge to scream bloody murder, out of the bathroom, dripping wet and driven half mad with terror, to take shelter on top of my bed.
When at last I had calmed down a bit, I began to think about the ladybug, and its strange wings. I couldn't help but assure myself over and over again that, that thing wasn't, couldn't be a ladybug. I could think of only two possibilities, 1). French ladybugs are carnivorous, vicious things that attack people's houses like termites, hungry for fresh blood, instead of wood, or 2). That was no ladybug, that was an evil spirit sent to menace my innocent, wandering soul, by some angry god, or Pandora's box ,in the guise of our loving Coccinella septempunctata. Of course, neither of these seemed very likely to me, but I couldn't shake the image my half blind, and trusting eyes had conjured up, nor the sprit's face with the demon's wings. And when you add the discovery of his entire community, it was like a horror movie, I was hearing the Psycho theme song; I felt like Rosemary when she discovers her doctor is in on the whole thing. It was . . . an infestation. I think now I must have also been influenced by Jane Eyre in my quick leap to evil spirits, as I had just reached the part where the crazy wife lights the bed of her anguished husband on fire in the middle of the night, after harassing the unsuspecting Eyre out of spite and jealousy. Also I think the fact that I was so spooked had much to do with the fact that I have a particular thing about bugs coming near me while I'm showering, something about being wet, and encumbered by soap seems to engender vulnerability to attacks.
At any rate I was on the alert, and I did indeed continue to see lady bugs around the bathroom, and even some migrated to my adjacent bedroom. I kept away from them, never touching them, or bothering them. I figured I'd already violently expelled one from the warm sanctuary that my bathroom must present to them, in full view of their entire colony, the evil spirits must be mad, red hot mad, no need to anger them further. This continued for several months; each siting jolting me with fear, and superstition. Finally I decided that my blind ignorance in terms of evil spirits and ladybugs needed to illuminated, so I did what any clever and crafty being of the twenty-first century would, I googled...
to be continued

1.28.2010

The Halfway Mark

Today is January 28 exactly five months after my arrival here, and five months from the end of my program. I feel sort of like the survival and discovery part of my year is over and now I can sit back and live the experience. Like I've hacked my way through the jungle of vines to find the perfect one-in-a-hundred orchid sitting at the base of the impossible cliff, and have transported it safely back to camp, and now I can just watch it all day long, and revel in my success. Not that I don't still have much to learn; I do! However, I think now that I can understand and make myself understood in everyday conversation (I can even have real discussions in French without the dictionary in my lap) I can focus on polishing my French. I still have five months and I want to get as much out of this linguistically as well as culturally, so I'm going to start hammering out the little common errors I know I make in almost everything I say. I also feel like I've amply explored the quotidian of french life, and now I have the time, a plush five months, to live it. Now I don't feel so on guard all the time; I'm not still just surviving. The survival part of this whole thing was adrenalin packed and fun, but I'm ready to be a bit more calm and pensive now.
a bientot,
e

1.10.2010

Il y a long temps que je n'ai pas ecrit ici! (I haven't written in forever!)

This is my blog about the holidays and London and other things. I'm sorry its taken me so long to write this, or anything as a matter of fact, but I've been very busy relaxing. Anyway, over the holidays I went to London for two and half days, and had a jolly good time celebrating the holidays. Don't worry I also took lots of pictures. I took so many pictures in fact between August and now that my computer is almost full. Not to worry though because I've begun to put them on CD's and to clean out my hard drive, so there will be more to come.
In France Christmas decorating is a big thing, I mean BIG. I get the impression that because they don't have Christmas and Thanksgiving, and New Year's Eve they have to squeeze all their homey, cozy, food celebrations into Christmas. Its for just such squeezing that they begin to set out decorations in every town square in every little village in November. It starts slow. In Saint Amand for example I arrived one frosty November morning to a truck full of little sapling trees spray painted with fake snow, workers feverishly tying them to ever lamp post on every street corner and all over the large parking lot in the middle of the square. Slowly but surely between that day and Christmas Eve lights in a myriad of bright colors, and flashy patterns, strung into festive shapes, sprung up all over. Each town did its part dutifully hanging strings between buildings and on the side of lamp posts so that soon everywhere I went there were joyous Pere Noels (Santa Clauses) and bright shooting stars. Even though all this was quite impressive, the most far out decorations of all, consistent in every little nook and cranny, out-of-the-way village, were those on the massive, ancient, sentinel churches. They put up entire creches in lights across the entry ways, and lines of color along the broad ledges that framed the entry ways; lights reaching up as far as a human could reach with the extension of his machines. The only other section of building even coming close to the insane spirited hand of the religious leaders, was that of elementary schools who doused their facilities in blue and multi-colored, flashing mania. Other pre-celebratory activities included Christmas markets in every town, ranging from the large Lille, to medium sized cities' such as Valenciennes, all the way down to Marchiennes, who gave a glowing example of markets in little villages. These Christmas markets were comprised of many little 'chalets' made out of wood, and assigned to an artisan or local vendor, who would then exhibit their goods, christmassy or not, for all the passers-by. Most included a stand of steaming waffles and crepes draped in melted chocolate or powdered sugar, depending on your preference. Each market was draped in lights like the rest of the town, and often had other lit amusements for the children set up at the end of the row of stands. The idea of all these markets was to present local (or not) gifts for your loved ones, however I hardly saw anyone actually shopping, except of course at the food stands. The most popular food stands were by far the boulangerie, who was selling christmas loafs of brioche and spice bread, and then the fish monger who was selling heaps of fresh oysters, this being the season. Personally I prefer the brioche, being my favorite pastry, I was so pleased to discover the promise of brioche over-load during the holiday season was absolutely one hundred percent true!
While I'm on the topic of food I shall describe the traditional French holiday feast. In France they eat a turkey for christmas dinner. However because this is France, and as I pointed out before this is the holiday, the French eat a stuffed turkey only after they've had an aperatif of little salads, such as crab, and toasts with smoked salmon, and foie gras, and stuffed endive, and only after they've had appetizers of oysters with vinegarette and lemon juice, and escargot, and if not served earlier foie gras, complete with onion jelly, and fresh clementines, and fleur du sel, only then can the French even think about eating Turkey. THen after eating said turkey, stuffed with chestnuts and mushrooms, they eat their version of ice cream cake, only they're usually in a log shape, and mixed with other more exciting things like meringue. Another interesting feast fact is that the French eat all this and more on Christmas Eve. Then, because there are two sides to every family, on Christmas Day they go eat with the other side of the family. In fact the French often eat three or four large christmas meals during the week of christmas. Christmas Eve, however, still remains the biggest and most important of all these side meals, and it is also when most people open presents. Luckily for me and my stomach, my French family is a little bit more realistic about the eating capabilities of the average human being, and so we ate only aperatif and appetizers on Christmas Eve with of course some cake, and then Salad and Cake on Christmas Day, and that was that. I think the most interesting thing I tried during this time of rich and exotic delicacies was a foie gras striped with a sort of pate made from beef tongue, eaten on toast like normal foie gras. It is called, luculus, and is a specialty of Valenciennes, the home town of my host mother and her parents. It was actually quite good. I thought perhaps the tongue would be tough, and it was thicker in texture than the foie gras, which is naturally soft and fine, but it enhanced the texture rather than detracted and altered the flavor only slightly, to make it a bit more savory and complex.
As soon as the festivities were finished we packed up and headed off for London. We drove the car the the boarder at Callais, and then drove it onto the shuttle train, which takes the same tunnel as the Eurostar, under the channel. We debarked at dover and drove into London. We were able to leave the car in the hotel parking lot for the rest of the trip, which was nice as you cannot drive a car around London proper without paying a yearly tax, in other words unless you live there. We saw tons of things in only tow and a half days thanks to a bus system for tourists which makes constant loops around the city all day until 4, and dropped us off a block from the hotel. The Hotel was filled with French and Italian tourists, all of whom, I was amused to see wore ski resort wear to combat the chilly marine-like wind of december London. I however thought Marchiennes was much colder, and was exceedingly happy in my pea coat and thick turtleneck. We saw the London Tower, the London Dungeon, the London Bridge, the Tower Bridge, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, Hyde Park, Regent's Park, Regent's Street, Piccadilly Circus, Tralfagher Square, Madame Tussaud's, Couvent Garden, The British Museum, the London Eye, and my personal favorite, Baker Street. (My real favorite was the London Eye, which is the largest ferris wheel in the world, and the loop lasts a half hour, but I am still so excited by the fact that I actually got to walk on Baker Street, the real Baker street, that I maintain my opinion that that one brief detour on our trip was my favorite.) My overall opinion of London was that it is a magnificent specimen of a city. No where else have a seen such a successful blending of ancient and modern architecture, everywhere you look the age-old historic buildings are sitting right next to trip-y spiraling blue and black striped towers, or giant ferris wheels. The effect was not confusing, or saddening but rather inspiring and breathtaking; it looked like a city evolving, on the move, alive, even the historic museums looked alive. Also London is very clean. I believe it is the cleanest city I have ever seen. I'm sure there are poorer and shabbier neighborhoods as well, but everything I saw, which included the poorer indian quarter, was broad light-filled boulevards and litter-free (or at least as close to litter free as any city could be), sparkling, pedestrian friendly side walks. There were parks and trees everywhere, not just little staked up saplings in the medians as part of a urban regeneration project, but real towering, solid trunks. Along with all this cleanliness was a lack of city noise. There were no sirens and horns honkinga nd construction and back firing cars outside the hotel room window at 4 in the morning, and no open vents, no man holes, no screeching, no clicking of heels along every sidewalk. Everyone and a while you'd hear the tube zoom by from a grate in the gutter, but n real city noises. (Actually this kind of disappointed me because I love city noises, but I'm sure most of you critics out there are taking off your hats to that one. Even I must admit it was quite a shock to discover that at midnight I could hear nothing at all except the soft whir of the heater in the bedroom, no matter how I strained my ears and when I looked out the window there wasn't a sole in sight, all was calm and peace.) Because of the driving tax I mentioned earlier, set in place to reduce pollution, the only cars you saw driving around were the huge double decker, red busses, the imitation tourist busses (such as our own), and the old fashioned black taxi cabs, along with a small sprinkling of cars, mostly very expensive cars, as their owners obviously have enough money to pay the tax. Overall I thought London looked like a very livable city, in fact, it would be an ideal city to, a. raise children, or b. retire, but it also looked like a city where you'd want a decent income to enjoy it properly. I would be very happy to have a chance to go back.
The last thing I'll add tonight is a brief note on the Galette des Rois, or cake of kings. This little pastry is only served in January (at least traditionally). It is to celebrate a catholic holiday which the americans have done away with long ago, if it ever even made it off the boat, something to do with the three wise men. It is a fluffy many-layered, pastry crust filled with frangipane (sweetened almond paste). The fun part about it though is not the filling (which has now been extended to include apple for all those non-frangipane eaters, to resemble a chausson au pomme, which is a house hold pastry in France), it is in fact la feve, or the fava bean which is baked into the pastry. Whosoever is lucky enough to find the hidden feve in their slice is king for the day, and gets to wear the little paper crown sold with the cake. Nowadays its no longer a fava bean but a little porceline figurine. I'm told that many people actually go out and find bakeries who make their galettes with fine figurines and collect them. Apparently you can find very high end feves and keep up really beautiful, expensive collections. In fact bakers used to bake batches with one gold coin inside that way they could raise the price of the entire batch and people would come and buy multiple galettes at once trying to get the lucky gold coin. Of course this made me think immediately of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, but thats another story. So far we have had a chance to eat from five or six galette des rois, being small they serve eight little slices, and almost everyone eats two helpings, and I have not gotten le feve, but I have all of January I figure, so I'll keep my fingers crossed.
A bientot,
e

12.19.2009

Christmas Time is Here . . .

December has arrived and with it has come two weeks of vacation, a ton of red and gold, a sprinkling of green, some spray painted trees, and even a bit of snow. I sit here sipping hot chocolate after a lovely breakfast of christmas brioche and watching the giant heap of presents at the foot of the little lopsided christmas tree, which has mysteriously appeared there sometime after the party last night and before the coffee this a.m. and I'm thinking how perfectly content I am. I've always loved the holiday season, but I'm mostly a thanksgiving and New Year's Eve girl rather than a christmas girl per say. Don't get me wrong, I love christmas too, as clearly displayed by instance on mangling every christmas carol I can get my hands on, and I adore christmas shopping, in fact I think christmas shopping is the tops! This is why I'm terribly excited about the upcoming week of shopping mania. Christmas shopping is condoned shopping frenzy, with an added bonus of good old fashioned, adrenaline pumping, giggle suppressing secrecy; what could be better?! This past week has been a bit of a winter wonderland, which did wonders to boost my lagging holiday spirit. Yes I admit it, my spirit was lagging a bit around the start of the month, which made me rather unhappy, but never fear, I think I've got it all caught up to speed just in time for the break. The week started out with a monday morning snow storm, well a snow sprinkling actually, but unlike New Mexico it continued all day long and then the next night, and is still here, making the whole week snow flurried, including but not limited to snow ball fights on the quad during break and dancing on the ice in the deserted park at lunch to the sound of church bells playing christmas carols. And next weekend I'll be jetting off to London, which I'm totally over the moon about, considering I've never been to England and I've always wanted to see London. Well more later, Joyeux Noel, Bons fetes, Joyeux Nouvelle Annee, a bientot,
e a la france

12.02.2009

Thanksgiving, Emma style . . .

Thanksgiving is known here in France as 'the american holiday,' and if you think about it, it is about as american as you can get: non-religious, its a totally unbiased holiday in terms of race and religion, no politically correct schools have ceased to decorate their halls with turkey hand-prints for fear of offending some one's belief system; over-eating, the whole point of thanksgiving is to share food with friends and family and eat until you can't imagine ever putting hand to mouth again, hypocritical, this is a celebration of the aiding hand extended to us by the native population whom we slaughtered, but not until after we had extracted all the useful information they had to offer us, and now we still use that one day of false friendship as an excuse to close the banks and be merry. Don't get me wrong, while I feel it is important to recognize the ridiculousness in the pretenses of this holiday, I love thanksgiving! Much more than christmas ever can, thanksgiving excites in me a holiday spirit. I crave the warmth of the candles on the table burning low because we've been delayed by the turkey, which is never ready on time. The excitement of no school and pumpkin pie with fresh whip-cream, simmering under the babble of the children, impatient to start the feast, bored from too many rounds of hide-and-go-seek chase which is really forbidden in the house, but in the rush of holiday preparations has been overlooked, is totally unique like a rare specimen butterfly.
It was with all this background of expected feelings that I awoke on Thursday the 26th this year. I felt sure something, some feeling or event, would distinguish it from all the others in my mind, but nothing...It was like any other day in every detail; nothing changed. It was a grand disappointment. However my host family knowing about Thanksgiving had decided before I even got here I think that we ought to celebrate it somehow. At first it was just going to be maybe a pumpkin pie, then a small meal substituting chicken for turkey, which is eaten for christmas here, and is regarded as the kind of meat one needs only eat once a year as its dry and does not in general illuminate the culinary imagination. However when I planned a slightly more elaborate menu it was decided we should invite Chrystal and Olivier and their kids Marion and Martin to join us, and with this edition came the idea we might need/want the quantity a turkey offered, thus a turkey was ordered and finally Gilles, Sarah's god father, was invited as well. We were a merry party of ten.
I planned to make corn-bread, apple and sausage stuffing, cooked separately from the turkey, cranberry sauce with orange zest, mash potatoes, sesame seed green beans, gougeres au cumin (little cumin bread cheese puff things from the Chocolate and Zucchini cookbook, or the cookbook of my dreams), and of course a pumpkin pie. Lists were made, kinks were smoothed, for instance my cornbread in the stuffing had to be replaced with extra french bread instead and it was determined I should make my own breakfast sausage as the french don't eat it, a date and time were selected: Sunday at 12:30. I planned everything out. I was to get up on Saturday and make the crust then that would chill and I would start the stuffing role out the dough chill it, continue the stuffing etc. The baking sessions were perfectly timed, and never were both pie filling and stuffing on the stove at the same time. However as these things usually go, nothing went how it was supposed to. I got up on saturday and realized that in planning all the shopping for my menu, indulging every item I thought to make, my host parents had saved the specialty stores for late saturday afternoon, namely the bakery for the bread and the butcher's for the sausage pork (and the turkey) both of which go into the stuffing, which I simply had to make the day before or I would never have time enough to finish everything. This error was easily corrected but it still through off my plans considerably and I started late. As the afternoon rolled away filled with my kitchen labors, the evening and consequently Isabelle's mother's birthday dinner loomed closer. My cranberry sauce was blended up, though the food processor wasn't quite strong enough to blend the orange peel into the tiny bits of zesty flavor I had envisioned but after a lot of pulsing and a bit of picking through it with a spoon all was well. My pie on the other hand was smooth sailing. While I'll admit the crust was not nearly as easy to handle as when I made the apple pie, after a bit of excess water, and a lot of patching I got it to fit in the pan, and look some what presentable (my fluting was a sad sight though, uneven and clumsy, but you can't have it all). I made the filling as instructed while the crust was pre-baking. It started out calm and careful and then become more and more rushed as I tried to get the pumpkin from the food processor to the stove to a shiny, creamy smoothness, back to the food processor and then into the crust while both were still warm. It was not an easy task; the crust was ready too soon, and I had to enlist an unsuspecting Thomas who wandered innocently into the kitchen to drop of his laundry and instead found himself trying to measure heavy cream in a third of a cup. Still the hot syrupy filling was rich and delicious, perfectly spiced, and I was pleased with the visual effect as I watched it through the oven door like a stay at home parent on the first day of pre-school. I pulled it out of the oven after just 25 minutes and it was puffed, lightly cracked around the edges and jiggled scrumptiously: text book. Unfortunately, my stuffing was a bit more last minute with all the missing ingredients, and ended in a frenzied frying of pork sausage 7 minutes after the original departure time for the dinner, in two different pans at the same time. Of course I enjoyed every minute of it, well almost, the insane chopping of two and half cups of onions, minced, with a crooked, dull knife, on tiny chopping board was not so hot, but in general I delighted in my day in the Kitchen, warm and dry, while it drizzled on the other side of the windows. However I was afraid to make my whole family late, and thus taint my stuffing with the back weight of disaster, mistiming, and loads of dirty dishes. Luckily however I got ready so quickly that I was waiting for some of the others, and we arrived first of all the guests (though there were only two other parties to arrive so thats not really saying much). Still, the delay in the morning had left me with no time to bake the stuffing, and as it had a different baking temperature than my little cheese breads I decided to abandon them.
Sunday morning came, and I was the first up. I got the stuffing in the oven and got up from the breakfast table dutifully every five minutes or so to baste it with a little chicken stock so it didn't dry out and burn. The smell of my nicely seasoned sausage, and butter soaked apples, softened from a light cooking was very encouraging. It was finished just after we finished trimming the green beans and peeling the potatoes. Everything was ready and set out, all that was left to do was boil the potatoes and mash them and then fry the green beans. The turkey was roasting away in the oven and the table was set. I went to get ready, feeling a little restless and confused with no more preparations to make, no more spices to measure, or veggies to chop. I came back to the kitchen and started the potatoes boiling, standing by ready with a knife to test them. After the knife sunk sufficiently into their yellow, flaky flesh I pulled them out and set them to soak in some cold water on the counter to remove extra starch as I had been instructed to do by my father: mash potato Ph. D. The guests arrived; the chips, crackers, and cheese puffs were pulled out with the cocktails. Chrystal and Co. thought that we exchanged gifts as at christmas time, a very good natured and easy mistake to make, and they showed up with lovely little cadeau's for everyone.
With a glass of champagne in hand I eventually returned to the kitchen to pull together my meal with a few finishing touches. This did not go so well though. The pan was too small for the green beans and they took forever to cook, even in two batches, and then they didn't cook super well, but the real horror lay in the potatoes, my knife test was totally false, they weren't even half cooked! I had forgotten to cut them into quarters before boiling them, so they didn't cook except on the very outside. Poor Gilles, who offered to help me by mashing the potatoes in my pre-made butter, milk and cream sauce waiting on the stove, was the one who discovered this and he was also the one who pulled them out of the pot (and sauce) rinsed them off and re-boiled them, while I tried to make my green beans work and started the gravy. I hadn't thought about the gravy because when I'd planned everything I was going to be using chicken, which wouldn't provide enough juices for a gravy sauce, and I'd never made gravy before, yet after a short conversation about it with Isabelle, who'd never heard of it, and a last minute google search I found a presentably simple "old-fashioned" brown gravy sauce and was determined to try it. I flagrantly ignored the instructions I'd sought out earlier and followed my instincts with the gravy and luckily for me it was scrumptious: success! That leaves the score Emma: 3 (Pie, Stuffing, Gravy) to Murphy's Law: 3 (Green beans, cranberry sauce, mash potatoes).
After the potatoes really were cooked all the way through I set to mashing them, and they came out wonderfully, more butter than I care to confess, and the perfect amount of salt, they were eaten all once. Actually everything was good by the time it reached the table, even the cranberry sauce with its too large orange chunks was a big hit. The only thing no one liked was the green bean dish. I ate them and thought they were fine, but I think they were a bit too crunchy for everyone else, who preferred unseasoned, over salted, mush as is often the case with green beans, but veggies are not at all the point at thanksgiving so, tempis (too bad). My stuffing was the crowning jewel of the feast; soft and savory of the bread, flavorful burst of sausage and the sweet apples blended into a perfect thanksgiving classic.
Then for the pie. I had forgotten to tell Isabelle not to put it in the fridge or cover it with plastic wrap, thinking that my leaving out on the counter without plastic wrap would be enough, but she probably though I'd forgotten in my haste and took it upon herself to both wrap it in cellophane and stick with the stuffing in the unheated office, which they said was good enough to be a fridge. Luckily just before loosing consciousness that night, the possibility of this unexpected disaster crossed my mind, and I was able to pull my precious pie out from under the plastic tomb under which it had been trapped early that morning. Unluckily the cellophane had done its job and my crack-less, plumped pie of saturday had been metamorphosed into a slightly sunken sunday pie with a small but jagged cicatrice on its gleaming, umber surface. There wasn't enough whipping cream left after the pie and mash potatoes to make whipped cream, so though I knew it would end in disaster from multiple cases of personal experience, I let Isabelle convince me to mix creams. Then when that didn't work I gave into Gilles and his whipped creme fraiche, which was bizarre (picture trying to turn sour cream into whipped cream if you can't picture creme fraiche) but he seemed completely satisfied with the odd result so I went with it and set it out on the table with my pie, and a spare can of store bought whipped cream. It tasted as good as I had expected it to, well seasoned, flaky perfect crust, creamy filling. I was well satisfied until I realized that neither Isabelle, nor Gilles, nor Sarah liked the taste of spiced pumpkin. This shocked and hurt me more than if I'd made an atrocious attempt at pumpkin pie and tried to serve it to them with bad results, but to see them muttering things like interesting, special, unique taste and texture, kind of like flan, and watch the obvious displeasure in their faces as they tasted something that disagreed with them, over my perfect specimen of a thanksgiving pumpkin pie, and knowing it was in fact the pumpkin spice flavor that I so cherish, itself as the cause, that was quite disheartening. It did boost my spirits considerably when Olivier finished the slices of both Isabelle and Gilles, because he liked it so much, however. Over all I considered my thanksgiving a smashing success. Everything was generally liked and I was swamped with compliments and almost everyone ate second helpings. I had really pulled it off, almost by myself, it was: thanksgiving, Emma style.

11.21.2009

Parties

So tonight is Saturday night, which means for the French: Party! So far I've been to two real parties, both on Saturday nights of course, but both were with my host family, for their family friends, and one of them was thrown by my host family themselves, so its not like they were too wild. Still there was plenty of loud music and dancing and refreshments, and general merriment. Tonight marks the third of these parties and its Gilles' nephew's 18th birthday. The French basically party like we do, though later and with more dancing, and probably harder than most middle-aged american parents party on an average Saturday night. The real difference comes in the fact that each of these parties has had a theme beyond the basic birthday party, or dinner party, or cocktail party etc. that americans are so fond of using. At first I thought it was just one wild exception, after all its not unusual to have a theme. This first theme was black and white, and we were all entreated to wear black or white, or get really wild and inventive and scramble the two. Not too hard, luckily just this summer I bought myself a 'I'm-going-to-France-for-a-year-right-on!' gift in the form of a black short-sleeved mini dress with a wide window pane stripe in thin white lines, from American Apparel, perfect for a black and white themed huge crowd dance party celebrating someone's fiftieth no? . . .yes! Well the next one, being thrown by my host family themselves, I had a bit more warning. They're chosen theme: Caribbean! A fun summery theme with good food, and great dance music to lighten up the month of November. Unfortunately, even with all my extra warning I still didn't have time to go shopping before hand which left me with two options, a little bright green sun dress, or a bright yellow thin sleeveless blouse with . . . I had no bottom save for a light purple over sized scarf that I attempted to wrap as a sarong. It would have worked too, but it was a little too little fabric between the unsuspecting friends of my host family and my 'bootie-shorts,' meant to be worn over a leotard in Dance class, which I employed as a safety measure; after all there would be dancing. As you might have already deduced I went with the sun dress.
Now I'm on to number three, and again there is a theme, which must be dressed for. This one is by far the hardest yet, and also the least respected ( already Thomas and Sarah have neglected it completely and Isabelle and Gilles haven't tried much harder). After must frustration, a 20 minute video chat, several minutes on the floor, and I lot of wishing for my Fairy Godmother to come change brunette (the dog) into a sports car for me, and get some local birds to sew me an outfit, I finally decided on my Ochre yellow tights, (very thick and opaque, and very yellow) a pair of grey tweed shorts and a black sweater.

11.20.2009

Snacker's revelation

Every Friday afternoon, while we are school, a trip to the super market takes place. We are invited, in fact we are encouraged to add to the shopping list in the day preceding this trip. At first I was shy about adding things to the list, and I still try to keep my additions to a minimum, but I feel more confident in adding a need or craving to the list thursday afternoon. However, the really exciting part about this fairly normal, and universal endeavor is not obtaining an item I've pined for, but in seeing what new and delicious completely French goodies have found their way into the cupboards. Every friday I come home to a multitude of pastries, cookies, yogurts, chips, jams, cheeses, drinks that I've never seen before. Its the most glorious feeling; I think it must be akin to the feeling a child growing up in East berlin felt surging in his breast, and stomach upon first entering a supermarket after the fall of the wall, and the introduction of capitalism was well underway. Since a child I have cherished the 'snack', almost always in miniature size, which in itself appealed to me in several ways, first children like things children sized, second, I never ate much as child so that meant it was the right portion, being a picky eater I enjoyed most this time of choice, when the options were totally open. Plus, one always eats snacks at happy times, in the middle of school: time to socialize with your friends without the intellectual burden of classwork, after school: when you have that nice sense of accomplishment for having survived another day, in the middle of the night: the pleasure of being the only one awake, a no man's land, the adrenaline of an act not quite sanctioned, yet not really forbidden, no matter when you eat them snacks=good, its just a fact! Not to mention, snack food is almost always just plain yummier than real food. So imagine the ecstasy of finding a whole new world of snacks only ever dreamed of in the abstract during times of great hunger awaiting, its a snackers paradise, and I am a snacker, the very definition.

10.21.2009

2 Wednesdays
















1). I finally made chocolate chip cookies last week. I was totally freaked out about them the whole time they were baking and cooling, as I was 100% sure they were going to be too thin and disgusting, but they turned out really well, so I had nothing to worry about. I was so freaked out in fact that I was chatting with my mom while I made them and she actually tried to console me and tell me that I should give the whole baking thing a rest, as I obviously wasn't having much luck, I couldn't be with all the complaining I was doing about how terrible my baking was, between the flat pancakes and the over orange-d crumble. This only made it worse of course and I had to send her pictures of my cookies to convince her that they I was over exaggerating, which she conceded upon viewing the pictures. So here are my cookies: (above)

2). Today is once again Wednesday. There is a new food item I tried this week: Tartiflette is kind of like Raclette only all the ingredients (potatoes, ham, cheese sauce, lots of cheese sauce) are thrown into a covered dish and baked. It was very tasty, even though the cheese was a strong one, and sometimes a whiff would catch me off guard, the taste was way milder after being baked, so it was all very pleasant, though of course very hardy. Other than that I'm really just ticking off the days until my family takes me off to explore other parts of France, as I am super excited. Look for more posts next week, as I will try to post tons of stuff including oodles of photos, stay tuned,
a bientot,
e

10.20.2009

Eureka!

I have to tell you about today, because while nothing special happened really, it was a very odd sort of day. Firstly, I was tired: Sunday night I had to set my alarm to 6:55 because last week was that week when the exhilaration and adrenalin of having to get up early every morning, and try and be alive and functioning by the time you arrive at school wears off and you just can't make it, so that by wed. you're late and thursday is only a little better. That was last week, and this week is the week where you self-reprimand and get up super early every morning. Next week would be the week where you slip back into the normal rhythm of things and get up as late as possible, while still being on time, except that next week is October vacation!!! I'm so ready! My family and I are going to the South of France to visit Gilles' sister at her really cool ancient stone house (I've seen pictures) and then some traveling around the South of France, we're going to stop in Marseilles, where Isabelle says we will have to try Bouillabaisse, as that is the specialty of Marseilles, and neither Isabelle nor I have ever actually tried it, so I'm going to put my dislike of all seafood behind me for his one special occasion, who knows it might totally reinvigorate the seafood eater in me, but I think not. Then we're going to the Alps to visit Isabelle's cousin. This means for you that there will be oodles of blogging and pictures galore. Speaking of which, tomorrow being Wednesday, you can expect the rest of the Curcurbitades pics, and a nice long catch-up post and maybe even some pictures of the house.
Anyway, after the fatigue, which I am sure my parents think is a constant because whenever I talk to them its when I'm tired, but really I'm quite energetic usually. I said earlier that I'm always tired, but I think now its more that my internal clock has gone in to standby mode because its so confused. This means that I have no concept of when its early evening, or late night, when its dark its dark and if I think about whether or not I'm tired the answer is always yes, its dark, time for bed. The same for the morning, I'm tired when the alarm rings at 7 (now 6:55, blah) because its an alarm that wakes me up, but on the weekends I wake up naturally and well rested at 7:30, though now its more like 8 or even 8:30 if I'm lucky. Then I had two tests, both of which went as well as can be expected. I was totally ready to go home around 1:00, but the rest of the day wasn't too hard. However by the end of the afternoon I had a terrible sore throat, and we're not allowed to drink even water during class so the feeling increased ten fold knowing that I had a water bottle in my bag next to me and couldn't have any water to make my throat feel better, and a bad headache. Thomas had a dentist appointment an couldn't go to swimming, and I didn't feel well, and then Sarah's friend wasn't there so Sarah didn't want to go all alone so we all ditched and came home on the bus instead. My throat's feeling better now, and the headache is almost gone, after I took some medicine around 6 and then ate something warm with protein for dinner. I always find eating protein makes my headaches better which I think is completely psychological left over from when I was a child and a terribly picky eater, so much so that I refused to eat almost any form of protein and consequently suffered from self-induced malnutrition that made my hair fall out and gave me terrible headaches now and then.
I'm sure right about now you are thinking her day is normal, except the sore throat and nothing odd has happened, wtf? However what made the day seem so odd to me was mixed among this tuesday feeling (of fatigue and long hours of tedious school work followed by exercise involving spandex and getting completely wet), were two discoveries, kind of Eurika moments which totally changed my attitude; I actually thought after the second moment 'Today is a good day." which is funny as that was at the hight of my physical discomfort. The first moment was today at lunch. As we were walking toward the main building, were each day we drop off our bags before heading off to the cantina, so we don't have to lug them through the lunch line, we ran across one of Thomas's good friends, whom we don't eat with and after walking with her for a bit, she said "okay, I'm off to eat at the 'Thermos,' bon appetite" Now, I'd heard the term 'Thermos' before when talking of lunch options, but the wheels were really turning now, as all the pieces started to fall into place but just to be sure I had to ask Thomas. And here it is: the Thermos is where all the kids who bring their lunch sit and eat it! Kids do bring their lunch, ha ha, I knew it, ha, Eurika! I'd seen through the door in passing the remnants of what looked like lunch room clean up in the big room on the first floor of the new building, but as we always ate in the Cantina in the middle school, which has all the fixings of a lunch room, kitchens, a line, trays, etc. I figured it was for the teachers, or a special occasion or something. And I'd always wondered why Alex, thats the girls name who we were talking to when I had this realization, never ate with us. This may not be big for you, but its been bugging me since the first week of school, so I'm damned well pleased with myself for figuring it out.
The second realization happened on the bus ride back from school. Everyday we stop, going and coming at a corner, with a building, which is obviously commercial, maybe a restaurant, but abandoned. It has a gravel parking lot and at the front of the parking lot there is always a sign for a fritterie, with a large arrow. I noticed the sign the first day I took the bus. And then everyday after that I would look for it to see if it was there again, and its been there everyday so far. Now one day, bored and exhausted as it had been an especially long day, I decided to amuse myself by looking for said fritterie, as I'd never seen it in passing though we drove up from the direction in which the sign pointed. I looked on both sides of the bus as carefully as I could for a fritterie or any other signs but nothing. A few days later I looked again, nothing. This has continued for two weeks or so, looking every now and then when I think of it, and yet that one sign has been the only proof of the fritterie's existence, until today. Today staring blankly out the window, on the opposite side of the bus from where I usually sit, in the corner of a muddy dirt road a yellow square catches my eye, and its a sign, almost the exact same sign as the original. Of course I look up as quickly as I can, because I don't want to miss my chance, and realize I'm looking at nothing but a lot of trees, a dirt road, a pond in the distance, and this sign. Well that sure confused me, but as we move past I see it: a stand, just like all the other fritterie stands I've seen here, peeking out over the trees next to the dirt road. Eurika! And thats when I thought, watching the little pond pass out of sight, "Today is a good day."

10.14.2009

so behind on blogging!!!

Okay, I know I've promised you those two stories, and don;t worry you'll get them, but I'm so behind on my blogging, as there are about a million things I wanted to write down here, including but not limited to: a funny weather story, some terribly sad news, new baking experiment, new ideas, swimming, and photos, and my shopping experience. Well I will try to get through as much as possible tonight, but the fact is it is already night, on wednesday, and that is not according to plan at all, ugh this slip of time. Also it will probably be very disjointed, as I have only little bits and pieces which don't fit together chronologically or in any other way, so I'll apologize now.
My first story is the dog story. Last sunday I woke up thinking what a lovely day it was going to be, after sleeping in as late as I possibly could, which was 9:30 with the help of a good blind on my window, which I always forget to draw, and a late saturday night, due to raclette eating. I thought, I know exactly what I want to wear today, and I hope the weather is gray, but without rain, and not too cold. I got up out of bed, and drew the blind up to reveal a light grey sky, perfectly smooth with cloud coverage, and not a drop of rain in sight. I got dressed, taking as much time as I pleased, not a luxury during the school year, and then proceeded to the kitchen. I was the first awake so I emptied the dish washer (I wasn't afraid of making too much noise because the house is very spread out and insanely sound proof, so that with the kitchen doors closed there's no way they could here me upstairs in the bedrooms). , then set the table. By the time I'd finished Gilles was up too, he made coffee, then invited me to accompany him to the bakery, which I did happily. Only there was a foot race in town that day, apparently fairly well known too, and there was no place to park, so Gilles sent me with the money to buy a baguette and a pain coupe, or a loaf thats been put through the slicer. Nervous as I was, baguette cam out fine, but Pain coupe got a bit mangled so the woman behind the counter got this clouded look in her eye, and then brightened and went around to offer me an eclair. I think she automatically thought eclair because judging by my accent (which I can't really hear, but I know is there) she knew I was american, and americans when they come to a French bakery want two things, a baguette, and an eclair. I have to admit for a fraction of a second I considered just conceding and trying again to order a pain coupe after she served up the unwanted pastry, because I was embarrassed at my failure, but I plucked up my courage and said politely as I could, "non, pardon, mais je voudrais un pain coupe, s'il vous plait." which means, 'no I'm sorry, I would like a sliced bread loaf please,' and it worked! So there I was with my loot walking back to the car, feeling proud and very French. When we got back I made myself some oatmeal, no one else wanted any, and ate it with a slice of baguette, and my coffee. It was very tasty, and I was feeling quite excited as Isabelle had a wonderful pot of veggies and meat on the stove for the anticipated sunday lunch with Gilles' mother, plus an apple tart in the oven. Later that morning, bordering on noon, Gilles came down stairs and started getting ready to go fetch the grandmother, and Sarah came over inquiring whether or not she could come. The reply was yes, but then she wanted to know whether or not they were bringing the dog. Now Brunette has on several occasions come along in the car, so I didn't think too much about this. However when almost forty-five minutes later the car pulled up and there was a large commotion at the door, I was ever so surprised to find Sarah carrying, not Brunette, but a larger white dog. Do to the fact that I had to be introduced to Gilles' mother, and such, I didn't really get a good look at the dog until later, sitting on the couch watching the two dogs now running about together. It was hideous! Like a bloated, beached wale, wallowing in its grotesque size, with a rather long whip like tale attached at the back. Its face, oh my god, its face was squashed and stretched so that the mouth was like that of Marlon Brando's in the Godfather, only with tiny pointed teeth jutting up from the bottom, and a smell wafting out of it that could have turned yogurt to blue cheese. As is often the case with little dogs like this one, or little dogs that have become not so little, its eyes were encrusted with crud, crud that was a reddish brown and ran down the full length of its terror-inspiring face. Whenever the playing got to be too much for Brunette, she would climb to the safety of the couch, where the grandmother was always waiting with open arms, and the other dog, Bijou (which laughably means jewelry in French) would stop and stare longingly up at the couch, where it was simply too fat to be allowed. It was easy to tell my host family, had pretty much the same impression of this dog that I did, but the Grandmother simply adored it. Whenever no one else was sitting on the couch with her, she would let the thing get up on her lap at the same time as Brunette, and stroke it lovingly, while whispering little words of comfort and nicknames to its disgusting mug. That day for lunch, along with the veggies and broth served over couscous, there were also some lovely merguez sausages and some lamb, cooked on the bone. The bones went, naturally, to the dogs outside. However, after we had finished eating, Sarah overcome with annoyance at the racket the two things were making at the door, went to let them in, and accidently let them come inside with bits of bone in their mouths, well actually only in its mouth; Brunette was too well trained to attempt that terrible a crime. This as you can imagine unleashed chaos on the household. Bijou began dropping bits of chewed bone on the floor, which Isabelle found. She flipped at, as the greasy lamb bone bits had come to rest on her living room rug. Sarah, guilty as she was, and being accused of her crime, set about trying to get bijou, and thus the lamb bones, outside again. Unfortunately, the coffee table in the living room was comprised of two large squares of wood, one resting on the floor the other suspended half a foot or so above the first to serve as the table surface, thus leaving a gap in the middle. Bijou, scared by the commotion centering on him, and his food, took shelter in the gap, rendering him unreachable to Sarah. Gilles, who had had just enough of this monster's havoc, tried to help Sarah by luring it out with another lamb bone it had dropped earlier, while yelling 'Bijou, vient, vient ici!' (which mean come, come here). Sarah meanwhile had reached for the Grandmother's cane sitting next to the couch, on which the grandmother sat, and tried to use it to scooch Bijou out from under the table forcefully, but alas, he was just too damn fat. Isabelle was now trying to wipe the rug off, and pick up little bits of lamb bone while reproaching Sarah for letting him in in the first place, and encouraging her to get him out again, all at the same time, and with great zealous. And all this time the grandmother sat in her spot on the couch, smiling and thinking how delightful her little companion, truly man's best friend, was, and how entertaining he could be, in between watching a program on TV. And me, I tried to help pick up lamb bits, though I was much too frightened to touch the thing. I couldn't laugh no matter how funny the whole thing looked, as no one else seemed to be able to see the hilarity in the whole situation, save maybe the Grandmother, who didn't seem to realize the terrible scene her horrific dog was causing right under her nose. I didn't laugh, not even a suppressed giggle until later that night, as I recounted the tale over video Skype to my parents, when I was over come and forced to roll around on the bed with tears leaking from my eyes, as I remembered the full thing unfolding as it did, and my disgust for this thing called a dog culminating in its final and spectacular fall from grace!
My second story takes place at school on a particular crummy day. I looked and felt like crap, and I'd just had a run in with the English teacher, whom I don't like in the hallway. I managed to escape to the girl bathroom, where I sought refuge from all this, but there was no toilet paper. Now you may be thinking, why didn't she just go to another stall, but you see in France in many public bathrooms, especially those of students, have one large roll of toilet paper in the front near the door, instead of in the individual stalls so when a bathroom is out of toilet paper, its really out! So I went to the bathroom in the other building where I had my next class. This bathroom is by far much nicer than the others, not so much because the others aren't clean, or the toilets clog easily, or there is a lot of graffiti, but because this one was more spacious, and it had both mirrors and a lovely second story window, which made the whole thing full of natural light and thus more pleasant than the artificial lighting of the others. Just as I was setting my bag down near the window, as in a school you can do that, a teacher came out of the stalls. Instead of going to wash her hands though, she came over to me, and said "but, what are you doing in here?" Well, this off the wall comment, shocked me greatly. Firstly, what else would I be doing in there, it was a bathroom! And secondly, why was she asking me, and in such sharp tones. Well I was so flabbergasted at being accosted in my place of refuge by a figure of authority, as yet unbeknownst to me, on my crummy day, that I simply stared at her, and shook my head slightly, as my mouth opened silently a few times. After asking a second time and then recognizing the bewilderment on my face and the tears budding in my eyes, she softened and said "oh you don't speak French." I shook my head, and muttered the phrase I've used so often here, "um only a little," and she left me alone, as abruptly as she'd come, and with no more explanation. Shaken greatly now, all I could manage was to lock myself in a stall and pity myself for a few seconds, then hiccup and hold back my tears, and then breath and tell myself to snap out of it, that I was fine, and being a baby, crying in a bathroom stall, in what I now believed to be the staff bathroom. It all seems rather comical now, but I must say I felt deeply wounded by this stranger's attempt to discipline me in my innocent, and confused state.
The other day it was pouring down rain all day. Everyone was huddled under umbrellas and hoods. The bell rang after the last class, and we all trooped towards the door. The rain had really picked up during the last hour, and as approached, umbrella at the ready, a senior girl in front of me with a great leap yelled out "Vive La Nord," pulled up her hood and was out into the storm in one fluid movement. Here in la Nord, pronounced with a perfectly circular mouth and a long suggestive slur on the end so that it comes out, 'norrrre' everyone is bitter-sweet about their home. Its clear they love it deeply, but they mock it incessantly, and attempt to drive fear into the hearts of visitors, this emotion is perfectly captured by the saying, when you come to the north of France you cry twice, once when you arrive and once when you leave. Also by referring to the cold and winter by giving an all knowing little nod, and say ing "ah yes, you're really in 'la norrrre' now."
Last night was my second time going to swimming. Its every tuesday evening for an hour at a little pool in Saint Amand. Luckily its not a real team so there will be no competitions, but it was still plenty hard. The pool is clean and cosy, and the woman who sits at the front desk was so nice and helpful, that I couldn't help but be encouraged. Then the coach was very nice too, and even tried to speak English for a bit. Unfortunately it is required by the pool that you wear a swim cap, and my only two bathing suits are a bikini, I think not, and a one piece halter top, very stylish, but not exactly swim team wear, well that wasn't really a problem, but I intend to get a new one soon, maybe even this weekend. Last week there was just a few laps and exercises involving the crawl, breast, and back strokes, plus one where we had to place a kick board between our legs and attempt to swim with out the use of our legs all while balancing the kick board in its awkward position, which was particularly embarrassing, as I was the only one who really couldn't do it. Luckily no butterfly, which I've never done in my life, and the other girls were very nice. This week however: butterfly!!! Duh, duh, duh.... At first it was, if you don't know how to do it, pick another stroke to do instead, no problem. Then it was practice the leg movements, (What?!) which I skipped out on by just kicking instead, and finally do the arm part, while kicking, as its easier, and with a kick board under your stomach to keep you from downing. Thank god he explained how to do it twice, and then I third time just for my sake, when I apologized and said I really didn't understand. This week the water was colder, it was more tiring, and the coach was annoyed with my constant failures, but I will go back next Tuesday, because I need the exercise, because Sarah and Thomas will, and because I'm very competitive by nature, and as much as I want to, I will not give up that easily. Its only an hour once a week, and I always feel better in the warm car and the way home to a nice dinner, a warm shower and my bed.
I don't have much more in me tonight, but I feel obliged to tell you that this morning the daughter of Olivier and Chrystal, the couple we've been socializing with, who are very good friends of the family, passed away. She had a very serious genetic disease, but it is very hard on everyone here. While I don't want to be indelicate by posting this news here, I feel it is far worse to ignore it. My thoughts are with that family tonight, and I think its really hard on Isabelle especially but also the rest of my host family.

10.11.2009

More thoughts on a Sunday, including Curcurbitades, Raclette, and other exciting things of a similar nature

Sorry its taken me so long to write this, but I have lots to say so it should be a very interesting post, I hope.
Last weekend was the annual festival in Marchiennes, called Curcurbitades. It's kind of a welcoming for fall. This was very appropriate I thought, as it was the first day that really felt like fall, while its been cold here some, and even some rainy greyness, it was the first day that had crisp air and leaves in the gutters, and that earthy, smell that is inextricable with fall. I love fall, so this all made me very happy! The festival was very cool. I thought originally it was for Halloween, as there are many people who dress up, and it is also called the festival of the sorceress, but this is because the last night they burn the effigy of a witch, as a way to rid the town of evil spirits, I think. For all you Santa Feans that should be no stretch of the imagination, as we have our own burning of a large puppet, named Zozobra every year. You come into the area of town marked off for festival grounds and immediately there are booths lining the streets, selling nick-nacks and seed packets, and such. There are also a lot of waffles, crepes, and frites, as well as candy and caramel apples, which they call love apples, as they are died bright red. There were three or four stages set up around the grounds, where little shows and things were scheduled. Then every so often four or five girls clad in long white dresses and lots of glitter would get up on the stage with a box of chocolate coins. The crowds, mostly those with children, but also some adults in the spirit of things, would gather around and cheer, and cheer, while the girls held up the coins. Then when they felt the cheering was enthusiastic enough, they would chuck the coins over the crowds and everyone tries to catch them, or at least pick them up if they fell close enough. This went on for a good 15 minutes every time, and they threw tons of coins. It was quite fun because the crowd gets so into it with the cheering, and the competitiveness of trying to get a coin, and of course the girls were enjoying themselves immensely. We stopped buy a show put on by a circus type group set in ancient greek, replete with juggling torches. They asked for a male audience member to volunteer and then try to make him out as hercules by putting him through three tests, after each test, which involves some skill, trapeze work or tightrope walking, or juggling, he is rewarded with a bit of costume, by the end he was wearing a set of fake chest muscles, and a loin cloth. The really impressive part was when two members of the cast lit six torches on fire and proceeded to stand on either side of said hercules, and juggle the torches back and forth in front of him. After we'd had enough of that spectacle we stopped to buy waffles at one of the stands. There were two kinds of waffles being sold at the fair. Great big fat ones dipped in chocolate for 2 euros a piece, and then thin round ones which were then cut in half and filled with icing, which were sold in packs. As we were five and could purchase 20 of the little waffles for 6 euros it made more sense money wise to do that and each have 4, 2 of each flavor, vanilla and rum. They were tasty but the entire fair I could smell the other kind frying in the distance mixed heavily with the smell of melting powdered sugar, and I couldn't help think it would have been well worth the extra money to have a chocolate dipped one instead, oh well. The coolest part of the festival was not the waffles, or the circus or even the massive pumpkin display, from local farmers, but the stilt walkers. I mentioned earlier that people dress up for this, and its true there are some festival goers who dress up in solidarity with the real performers, but for the most part the costumes are on a variety stilt-walkers dressed as goblins and fairies, and other evil, or tricky spirits. There was one group of 4 or 5 fairies in all white with large wings who were followed by men with drums, on foot, also in all white, who were quite mysterious. Then a group that was much more colorful with masks that played music, mostly drums as well. However my absolute favorites were three demons who looked like the faun in Pan's Labyrinth, with long grisly hair, and hooves, at the bottom of their cocked knees. They had horns, and crazy noses, and long fingernails. There was a yellow one, a blue one, and a shocking red one. They would stand together towering over the crowd that would draw near to their alluring figures, very still for a minute and then let out a blood curdling screech and lunge into the crowd and chase the little children around for a bit, before moving off through the crowd and starting over again, it was very spooky, but none of the kids seemed terribly upset by it, though the screamed and ran their little behinds off if one pursued them it always ended in giggles, and I couldn't help thinking that in the US the little ones would be crying of fright, as they often do at halloween carnivals, so maybe French kids are tougher, I'm not sure, but it was so cool, and don't worry I took pictures. While I myself didn't end up attending the burning of the sorceress, so I don't know about that part, I'm told its exactly the same every year, and my family seemed a bit disenchanted with the whole thing. Isabelle and Gilles stayed home, while Thomas and Sarah and two of Thomas's friends and I went to see it by ourselves, but I think they enjoyed it none the less, and I certainly did. Though I have to say it was the first time I really felt home sick. I'm not exactly sure why I felt home sick as its a festival that only happens in Marchiennes, nothing like our fiestas, save maybe the Zozobra likeness, but something about it made me a bit sad. I think perhaps because it seemed like the kind of thing you'd want to go to with really good friends and family, and rendez-vous indoors afterwards for something hot and sugary, and while I'm very fond of my host siblings, it's just not quite the same.
The next thing to talk about is Raclette. It is actually a swiss dish I think, but its popular in parts of France and Belgium as well. Its similar to fondu, but apparently its the kind of thing where you have to pick one and be loyal to it. I really couldn't say which I prefer, but I like them both. Raclette is a type of cheese, and the name comes from the French word to scrape, as you melt the cheese and then scrape a bit off onto your plate. Well now they have nifty little contraptions just for raclette, that resemble panini presses, except that instead of opening the top is suspended an inch or two from the bottom and then everyone has a little triangular pan on which they set there slice of cheese, which is then inserted into the slit, and the whole pan is heated so that before long your cheese is melted and bubbling slightly, and delicious. You put your cheese on top of a boiled potato, which you have to peel and cut into chunks first. Then you eat it with charcuterie, or meats such as sausage, salami, prosciutto, ham, or pate, and cornichons, and pickled onions, etc. It's all terribly filling, but wonderfully tasty. We ate this at their friends house, the same friends whom we have been socializing with since the first week, including La Braderie, as they insisted that I try a raclette before leaving France, and there's no better time than a cool fall night.
I have two stories to tell you, one about the lovely lunch we had today in the company of Gilles's mother who was very sweet, but I feel I must tell you about her dog, and the other is of my encounter with a teacher in a bathroom, which was quite frightening. But I simply have no more energy tonight, but now that I have told you about them, it will encourage me to write sooner, rather than later when the edge has worn off. Hopefully tomorrow, while my chocolate chip cookies are in the oven. I still haven't had a chance to bake an all american apple pie yet, but I feel its coming, however until then cookies will be a nice baking adventure.
a bientot,
e
p.s. also coming tomorrow the rest of my curcurbitades photos.

10.02.2009

Friday at last

I'm feeling so much better today all thanks to my host family. They really are like the greatest host family ever, I mentioned that I was pretty sure I had a cold, that swooped out of no where and hit me hard (well not quite like that, but you get the idea), and Isabelle sent Gilles to the pharmacy straight away where he procured pills for Sarah and I who both have colds, and nasal sprays, as well as cough syrup as Sarah and Thomas both have coughs, and sore throats (thank god I missed out on that). Well today aside form a few sniffles, nothing like yesterdays torrential down pore of mucus, I felt practically normal. There was no filmy, itchiness in my eyes, and no far away bloated head, and no headache, and I wasn't drowning all day. Thank you Isabelle! I did indeed eat quiche a l'oignon for lunch today, but I had to stick with a good old fashioned pain au chocolat, instead of that other cake thing. Tonight: croque-monsieurs, as Gilles and Isabelle are going to a concert with friends it'll be just us teenagers, add they've left us this very french easy dinner.
I was however horrified to find that Isabelle had bought a pumpkin for me to make pumpkin pie with. I said I had a great recipe and wanted very much to try and do the thing justice around Thanksgiving, but my mom always uses the canned stuff, as I have always used the canned stuff for baking anything pumpkin-y. I have absolutely no idea what to do with a real pumpkin, and besides that I've heard form multiple, and very reliable sources that it never turns out as well if you try and start from scratch with a real pumpkin. I don't know how to tell Isabelle that I simply won't even try with a real pumpkin, and that I will do what I have to to search out the canned stuff instead. Well I'll figure something out, because I wan them to like my pumpkin pie, and I don't ant pumpkin gunk and seeds all over everything with nothing to show for it but a measly, stringy, inedible pie. That's all for now,
a bientot,
e

10.01.2009

Missing Links

I realized after posting that last blog entry that the long hand written entry I've yet to type up contains two very important pieces of information, without which it may be very hard to understand what I'm talking about. The first is my explanation of the French grade system and the other is my story about the English test. The French grading system is very different from the american one. While in the US everything is put into percentage and then translated into letter grades, the French system is a fraction out of twenty. This seems straight forward enough, just pull out your calculator and translate the fraction to a percent so you can see where on the letter grade scale you fall, right? Nope, not all, the French fraction does not translate into a letter grade. In the US only an 18-20 would be an A, while a 16-17 is a B, etc. and no one wants lower than a B, while aiming for a low A. However here a 15-17 is considered very good, an 18 or above is really great and 10-14 is respectable, satisfactory, but a little on the low side. I have so far received a 14.5 in Math, which is fine for where I am, especially considering that 3/4 of the test were word problems, a 12 in French, a 11.5 in Biology, which I have to admit miffed me a little, but its all written explanation, and I didn't fully understand what some of the questions were asking and the teacher wrote that's correct next to the grade, which I took to mean thats where you should be considering your language abilities not to mention the class average was a 12. The first test I took was pure memorization and I got a 19 (score!) and then I took an economics test and went down with a spectacular 3.5/30 points, yes! I think that is universally agreed that a 3.5 out 30 is simply atrocious no matter what grading system you use. However, as I mentioned in the last blog entry I got a 10.5 on the next economics test which, very much pleased me. After I got the first test back I went to the teacher and asked her if there was a time I could meet with her and discuss my epic failure, but she just assured me it was normal for an exchange student, and not to worry, it would all get easier, so I'm not worried, and it has gotten easier.
The next missing link is my story about the English test, which took place last Saturday. I haven't been taking any English classes as the english teacher clearly doesn't like me, nor want me in his classes, and as I don't particularly care for him either, and I certainly don't need the lessons that's fine with me. However last Friday I ran into him and he asked me to come into school on Saturday morning and take his two hour English test to "evaluate my level in English," yes that's right, this French man who is too scared he'll make an error to let me sit in on his class, wants to evaluate my, an American, English level, what?! Well, I went because what else could I do, and because as my host mother said its best to give him the benefit of the doubt, perhaps there is some practical reason for having me take the test. I was still a bit peeved though, as if I'm not going to take his class I'm not going to take his tests either. And now he has given me a 16.5 out of 20, the nerve. Well I'm going to find him and point out his errors, to raise my grade and redeem my good name, (is it just me or am I being a bit melodramatic?) and I know I did miss some things, especially the section of translating sentences from English to French, but I know I deserve more points. There it is my story of the English teacher and his dreaded interrogation. I'm not taking another, and Isabelle will back me up on that one, as she told me she would, so its all over and done with now. Hopefully you will be able to make better sense of the last entry with this information,
a bientot
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